The tradition of giving engagement rings has evolved over centuries, becoming a timeless symbol of love and commitment. Written by Benjamin Khordipour, one of the world’s leading experts on vintage jewelry and a renowned author, this article explores the fascinating history behind this cherished custom.
Engagement Rings in Ancient History
Discoveries proved that early Egyptians wore rings on their Ring Finger.
The Bible records that in 1059 BCE, Eliezer gave Rebecca a golden nose ring and bracelets upon determining that she would be Isaac’s bride.
Early Romans believed that the “vein of love” was located on the fourth finger of the left hand, so they began placing rings on that finger. However, the rings they presented were far less romantic than the modern symbolism behind them.
In Ancient Rome, the ring gifting ceremony was a sign of ownership.
History of the Engagement Ring
Engagement Rings in the 1200s
The tradition of engagement rings can be traced back to the 13th century, when it was decreed that marriages must include a waiting period between the betrothal and the wedding. A ring symbolized this engagement period, typically made of gold or silver, to mark the promise of marriage. During this time, engagement rings were simple, often unadorned bands, signifying a legal and religious commitment rather than a romantic gesture. The ring represented the transfer of wealth and responsibility from one family to another, as marriages were more about alliances and property than love.
While these early rings were modest in design, the circular shape symbolized eternity and the unbroken nature of the union. It’s interesting to note that during this period, the ring was often worn on the right hand rather than the left, as was common in later centuries. Rings were sometimes engraved with religious symbols or words, reinforcing the spiritual aspect of the marriage. Though the materials and symbolism of rings would evolve over time, the 1200s laid the foundation for the engagement ring as a critical element in the matrimonial process.
Engagement Rings in the 1300s
In the 1300s, engagement rings began to take on deeper meanings, moving beyond just symbols of legal agreement to incorporate more personal and mystical elements. Rings of this era started to feature gemstones, often chosen not only for their beauty but also for their believed powers and properties. Rubies, for example, were thought to bring passion, while sapphires symbolized purity and loyalty. Though still rare and expensive, diamonds may have been occasionally used because of their association with invincibility, thought to strengthen the bond between couples.
This period also saw the rise of engraved rings, with inscriptions of romantic phrases or religious verses becoming more popular. The concept of inscribing the ring with words like “love” or “faith” began to reflect the growing cultural value of love within marriage, a shift from earlier times when marriage was largely a business or political arrangement. Interestingly, many engagement rings of this era were also set with hollow cavities believed to hold herbs or relics that could offer spiritual protection.
Engagement Rings in the 1400s
The 1400s marked a significant milestone in the history of engagement rings, with the first documented use of a diamond in an engagement ring. In 1477, Archduke Maximilian of Austria gave a diamond ring to Mary of Burgundy to formalize their engagement, setting a precedent for royalty and nobility across Europe. This event popularized diamonds as the ultimate symbol of commitment and wealth, as they were rare and incredibly valuable during this time. The diamonds in these early rings were often set in the shape of an “M” to represent the initials of the betrothed, a trend that reflected the personalization of rings that would continue to evolve.
While diamonds were becoming more fashionable among the elite, most people still could not afford them. Engagement rings of the 1400s, even for those of lesser means, often included other gemstones or enamelwork, which was a popular decorative element at the time. Rings were typically worn on the left hand, as it was believed that the “vena amoris” or “vein of love” ran directly from the fourth finger to the heart. Interestingly, some rings from this period also featured designs inspired by the coat of arms of the families involved, reinforcing the idea of marriage as a union of powerful alliances. The 1400s established the enduring association between diamonds and lifelong commitment.
Engagement Rings in the 1500s
The 1500s brought the Renaissance, a time of artistic revival that shaped engagement ring design. Rings became more elaborate, featuring intricate goldsmithing and complex designs. Personal mottos, romantic verses, and miniature portraits were often engraved on the rings, emphasizing love and self-expression in marriage. Many inscriptions appeared in French or Latin, adding sophistication. The “fede” design, showing two hands clasped together to symbolize trust and partnership, also grew in popularity.
One unique feature of 16th-century rings was the “gimmel ring,” made of two or more interlocking bands. Each partner wore a piece during the engagement, and the pieces reunited at the wedding to symbolize their union. Hidden compartments with secret messages became trendy, reflecting the romantic spirit alongside a love for puzzles and intellect. Gemstones like diamonds, rubies, and sapphires continued to embellish rings, though emeralds gained favor for their link to fertility and renewal. Rings often combined multiple gems, with diamonds prized for their strength and brilliance.
Engagement Rings in the 1600s
In the 1600s, engagement rings took on a more sentimental and personal role as the era of “posy rings” emerged. These rings, often simple gold bands, were engraved with short poems, phrases, or “posies” on the inside. The inscriptions, usually in French or Latin, ranged from romantic declarations like “A token of my love” to religious sentiments such as “God above increase our love.” The exterior’s simplicity belied the profoundly personal meanings hidden within, making the ring a public and private symbol of love. Posy rings became the perfect way for couples to express their affection discreetly, and they were highly popular among all classes, from royalty to common folk.
Another notable trend in the 1600s was the increased use of diamonds in engagement rings, thanks to the discovery of diamond mines in Brazil and India, making them more accessible. However, the diamond cuts were still rudimentary compared to modern standards, often appearing as small, unpolished stones. Despite this, diamonds were still highly valued for their durability and symbolic connection to everlasting love.
Engagement Rings in the 1700s
In the 1700s, engagement rings began to reflect the extravagant tastes of the Georgian era, a time marked by luxury and refinement in fashion and jewelry. The “cluster ring” became particularly popular, featuring a central gemstone surrounded by smaller stones, often arranged in floral or star-shaped patterns. Diamonds remained the preferred gemstone for these designs, but they were frequently paired with colored gems such as sapphires, rubies, and emeralds to create striking and colorful pieces. The diamonds of this time were typically rose-cut, with a flat base and a domed, faceted top that sparkled elegantly under candlelight. Georgian-era rings were set in closed-back settings, which enhanced the brilliance of the stones by using reflective foil behind the gems.
This period also saw increased use of symbolic motifs in engagement rings. Designs featuring hearts, serpents, and clasped hands were common, all carrying specific meanings related to love, fidelity, and union. Serpents, for example, were a particularly popular motif, symbolizing eternal love and wisdom. In the following century, Queen Victoria would later popularize the serpent design further with her engagement ring. In the 1700s, sentimental jewelry took on new forms, as couples exchanged rings inscribed with their names, dates, or poetic verses. This era’s craftsmanship emphasized both the artistic beauty of the jewelry and the deep emotional connections they represented.
Engagement Rings in the 1800s
The 1800s, especially during Queen Victoria’s reign, embraced romantic and symbolic engagement rings. Queen Victoria’s love for Prince Albert heavily influenced jewelry trends. Engagement rings often featured hearts, flowers, and even serpents, symbolizing eternal love and protection. Victoria’s own engagement ring, shaped like a serpent with an emerald head, set a trend. Yellow and rose gold dominated, with intricate engravings and filigree designs reflecting Victorian art. While diamonds remained popular, couples often chose sapphires, rubies, and emeralds. Pearls were also common, adding a softer touch to vibrant gemstone combinations.
Mourning jewelry left a significant mark on engagement rings in the later 1800s. After Prince Albert’s death, Queen Victoria’s mourning attire and jewelry sparked a wider trend. Dark gemstones like onyx and jet appeared in engagement rings, reflecting this somber mood. Many rings included braided hair of loved ones or secret compartments for mementos. These designs held deep emotional significance. The discovery of diamonds in South Africa fueled the growing popularity of diamonds, setting the stage for their future dominance. Jewelers also improved their techniques, crafting intricate settings that made gemstones shine even brighter. The Victorian era blended romance, craftsmanship, and personal sentiment in engagement rings.
Engagement Rings in the 1900s
The 1900s revolutionized engagement rings, particularly with the rise of diamonds. In 1947, De Beers launched their famous slogan, “A Diamond is Forever,” linking diamonds with eternal love. This marketing campaign fueled a worldwide demand for diamond engagement rings. By the mid-century, diamonds became the standard for engagements, with solitaire settings leading the trend. Platinum, with its strength and durability, emerged as a popular metal for rings. Jewelers also introduced refined diamond cuts, including the brilliant cut, which maximized a diamond’s sparkle.
The early 20th century also saw the emergence of the Art Deco movement, which greatly influenced engagement ring design. From the 1920s to the 1930s, bold geometric shapes, contrasting colors, and intricate details defined Art Deco rings. Couples favored rings set with diamonds alongside sapphires, emeralds, and rubies. These colorful combinations created a unique, striking look. The Great Depression in the 1930s briefly shifted trends toward simpler designs, but the post-war boom reignited demand for glamorous rings. By the late 1900s, engagement rings had evolved into a symbol of personal style and societal expectation.
Learn More: If you want the complete breakdown of the 7 Eras of Jewelry, read our expert article.
Engagement Rings in the 2000s
The 2000s redefined engagement rings with a strong focus on personalization and ethical considerations. Couples moved away from traditional designs, opting for rings that reflected their unique style. (Lab-grown diamonds gained popularity as a more affordable and eco-friendly alternative to natural diamonds, but their popularity is dramatically decreasing). Many couples also chose ethically sourced gemstones and vintage rings, reflecting a growing awareness of sustainability. Custom-designed rings became more common, allowing couples to create one-of-a-kind pieces that told their personal love story.
Alternative gemstones like sapphires, aquamarine, morganite, and even black diamonds rose in popularity during this period. Vintage-inspired designs also made a strong comeback, with couples seeking rings that reflected a timeless, antique feel. Halo settings, which featured a central gemstone surrounded by smaller diamonds, became a defining trend of the 2000s. With technology advancements, online retailers allowed couples to shop and design engagement rings from the comfort of their homes.
This era highlighted individuality, ethics, and the accessibility of creating meaningful and unique engagement rings.
Most Significance Engagement Rings in History
It is impossible to determine the most significant engagement rings in history, but here’s my list of some of the most famous ones.
- Archduke Maximilian of Austria and Mary of Burgundy (1477): The first recorded diamond engagement ring, setting a precedent for diamond rings in royal engagements. See above.
- Queen Victoria and Prince Albert (1840): Victoria’s snake-shaped ring with an emerald head symbolized eternal love and protection, sparking a trend for symbolic jewelry.
- Grace Kelly and Prince Rainier of Monaco (1956): Her 10.5-carat emerald-cut diamond ring from Cartier became an iconic symbol of royal elegance.
- Jacqueline Kennedy and John F. Kennedy (1953): A distinctive ring featuring both a 2.88-carat diamond and a 2.84-carat emerald set in yellow gold.
- Princess Diana and Prince Charles (1981): A stunning 12-carat sapphire ring surrounded by 14 diamonds, now worn by Kate Middleton.
- Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton (1964): Taylor’s legendary 33.19-carat Asscher-cut Krupp diamond became one of the most famous jewelry pieces in history.
- Kim Kardashian and Kanye West (2013): Her 15-carat diamond ring by Lorraine Schwartz was one of the most talked-about engagement rings of the decade.
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Frequently Asked Questions
When Did Diamonds Become Popular for Engagement Rings?
Diamonds became popular for engagement rings in the late 19th century, thanks to the discovery of diamond mines in South Africa. However, the De Beers marketing campaign in 1947, with the slogan “A Diamond is Forever,” solidified diamonds as the go-to stone for engagements worldwide.
When Did Wedding Rings Start in America?
The tradition of exchanging wedding rings in America began in the early 19th century. By the mid-20th century, the practice had become widespread, with both men and women wearing wedding bands as symbols of commitment.
What Has Been the Historical Purpose of the Engagement Ring?
Historically, engagement rings symbolized a formal agreement between families, often representing wealth, alliances, and responsibility. Over time, they evolved into symbols of love and commitment, signifying a promise of marriage.
What Is the Oldest Known Ring?
The oldest known rings date back to circa 2500 BC and were found in tombs in Ur, an ancient Sumerian city. These rings were not necessarily engagement rings but were often made of precious materials, signifying status and power.
