The Ultimate Zao Winter Travel Guide • Just One Cookbook

Experience the magic of Zao in the winter with our ultimate guide. From must-see attractions to hidden gems, we’ve got you covered for the perfect winter getaway.

Mount Zao, also known as Zaosan (蔵王山), is a cluster of volcanic mountains in the northern Tohoku region, lying on the border of Yamagata and Miyagi prefectures. Mount Kumano has the highest elevation of 1,841 meters, with the central volcano containing a crater lake named “Okama.” Also known as the “Goshiki-Numa” (Five Color Pond), the crate lake captivates visitors as it changes color depending on the weather.

Mount Zao is known to be a power spot in northern Honshu (Japan’s central island), and it is among the tallest mountains in all of Tohoku and one of the 100 most famous mountains in Japan. The mountainside is covered in frost-covered trees, known as “snow monsters,” a natural phenomenon I will explore later.

On the western side, in Yamagata, lies Zao Ski Resort, a haven for winter sports lovers, hot springs, and nature lovers. I had the pleasure of visiting for one night to experience Mount Zao’s beauty and to let you know what is there to do in Mount Zao in winter.

So, let’s get into the action!

How to Get to Zao Ski Resort

After arriving in Sendai, I drove by car, which took approximately 1 hour and 20 minutes. While it may look like there is no snow, as you get closer to the ski resort, it becomes increasingly slippery, so please drive with caution.

If you don’t plan to rent a car, traveling by bus is the best option. From Sendai Station, board the Senzan Line to Yamagata Station. It takes around 1 hour and 20 minutes and costs 1,170 yen one way (in 2024). From Yamagata Station No.1 Bus Stop, board the Yamako Bus, which will take you directly to Zao Onsen Bus Terminal, taking approximately 40 minutes and costs 1,000 yen one way. You can find the bus timetable here.

When to Visit Zao Ski Resort

Zao Ski Resort opens in early December and ends in late April or early May, depending on the snow conditions. However, the heaviest snow falls in January and February, so if you plan to ski or snowboard, I recommend visiting then. During these months, you’ll also find an abundance of light and airy powder snow that makes it feel like you are gliding along clouds.

However, you can also enjoy some spring skiing with fewer crowds and slightly warmer temperatures in March and April but with less chance of experiencing powder snow.

If you want to see the snow monsters, mid-February is the best time as temperatures drop from 14 to 5°F (-10°C to -15°C).

While Okama Crater is a popular destination spot for hikers during the off-season, it is not accessible during winter.

What is there to do in Zao Ski Resort in Winter

While Zao Ski Resort is famous among skiers and snowboarders, there are many other activities that you can enjoy. During my stay, I saw many people wandering around the resort, enjoying the scenery, relaxed atmosphere, and food!

Skiing and Snowboarding

The main attraction is undoubtedly winter sports. With 14 slopes to choose from, over 30 lifts, gondolas, ropeways, and countless off-piste tracks, the area is the go-to for skiers and snowboarders in the Tohoku region.

The ski slopes range from beginner to advanced, making them accessible to everyone. Ski lifts operate throughout the day, with lower lifts available for night skiing.

You can find rental shops throughout the ski resort offering all the ski and snowboard gear you need to enjoy the slopes. Most offer half-day to one-week deals depending on your length of stay.

First-timers can also book lessons at Zao Base Center Jupeer, which offers private and group classes.

You can also find a list of schools here, with some having English support. Be sure to book in advance as peak season does get busy, and booking on the day may be difficult.

Winter Trekking and Snow Monsters

Mount Zao is famous for the “snow monster” natural phenomenon. Also known as Juhyo, snow monsters are formed from northwesterly seasonal winds from Siberia that gather a lot of water vapor from the Tsushima Warm Current in the Sea of Japan.

How is Snow Monsters Formed

During the winter, all this water vapor forms snow clouds, which rise over the Asahi Mountain Range in the morning, pass through the Yamagata Basin, and ascend over the Zao Mountain Range, causing heavy snowfall. Many cloud particles become supercooled water droplets that do not freeze even at temperatures below 0°C, mixing with the snow and freezing on the Aomori Fir Trees, forming the snow monsters.

I decided to take part in a winter trek where I could get up close with the snow monsters at a leisurely pace. I booked through Visit Yamagata, which offers various courses led by a guide. You can ask for an English-speaking guide at your request. All the courses last around 5 to 6 hours, with breaks in between, and are accessible for beginners. For those wondering, I chose the A course.

You will then get a confirmation email and a list of necessary items and clothing. I visited Shiba Ski Rental to pick up all the required gear. It gets extremely cold at the summit, so I highly recommend picking up some Heattech clothing, scarf, and gloves. You can rent the rest at the rental shop. If you are prone to bright areas, sunglasses are a must as it gets extremely bright, especially on a sunny day.

Trekking at Zao

I lucked out and got some of the best weather, with clear views over Zao and Yamagata. Please note that the tour will still go ahead if the weather conditions are poor.

My guide was Takahashi san, a Zao local who has decades of climbing experience and just so happened to be a photographer previously. Along the way, he told me all about the formation of the snow monsters, the views, and tips and tricks to take the best photos.

The trek started at 8:15 am at Sanroku Station, where we would ride the gondola to the Juhyo Kogen Station and then take a second gondola to the Jizo Sancho Station on Mount Jizo.

Whether you plan to go with a guide for a trek or ride the gondola to admire the snow monsters, I highly recommend getting there as early as possible. I heard that people were lining up for several hours, with many giving up.

After exiting Jizo Sancho Station, you’ll see many skiers, snowboarders, and people admiring the snow monsters.

Seeing Snow Monsters Up Close

You can also see the Jizo statue, one of three gods enshrined on Mount Zao, along with Zao Daikokuten and Zao Daigongen. In winter, the statue is buried in snow, with only its upper torso and head visible.

We then headed up to the peak of Mount Jizo, which offered views over Zao and the mountain ranges to the west of Japan.

In the summer, you can go on to hike Mount Kumano and see the Okama Crater.

Then we made our way down through all the snow monsters.

If you look closely, you can see that the strong winds help form the snow monster’s sweeping shape.

Takahashi San told me that the Aomori Fir Trees have been dying recently because of an outbreak of Todomatsu tree beetles. The number of trees has been declining, and some have shrunk in size as the beetles cause the trees to decay.

As we descended through the snow monsters, we crossed various courses where we could see the skiers and snowboarders up close.

Takahashi San also took me through one of his “special” trails, which other guides don’t usually take. We stopped at a rest house for some lunch.

We continued on for another hour or so, admiring the last of the scenery on the trek.

The Views From Torikabuto Observatory

The tour ended at Torikabuto Observatory, which offers a stunning view over Mount Jizo, where we started.

On the other side, you can see Zao Onsen town in front of the right-hand side and Kaminoyama on the left in the back.

If the weather is nice, you can see Mt. Adatara, the Azuma mountain range, the Iide mountain range, the Asahi mountain range, Mt. Gassan, Mt. Hayama, and Mt. Chokai.

Overall, the snow trekking was easily one of the top experiences I have had since living in Japan for eight years. While you can get a rough understanding of the scale and beauty of Zao’s nature through the photos, seeing it in person is an entirely different experience.

During the evening, there is a night cruiser tour and a special illumination where the snow monsters are magically lit up. Unfortunately, the illuminations were not available on the day I visited, but please check at the Sanroku Station for details on the day.

Zao Onsen

Zao Onsen refers to the various onsens found throughout the area. They date back over 1900 years when it is said a wounded warrior miraculously healed after bathing in the onsen. It is one of the top spots for strong, acidic, and sulfuric onsens in Japan, beneficial for wounded skin and muscle pains. Locals call them the “Springs of Beauty.”

If you plan to stay overnight at Zao Ski Resort, your accommodation may have its own onsen. However, you can also enjoy various public onsen, including the Kamiyu Public Bath, Shimoyu Public Bath, and “Kawarayu” Public Bath.

Please note that Zao Dai-Rotemburo (Zao Large Outdoor Baths), one of the more popular public onsens, is closed during winter.

You can find a complete list of public baths, footbaths, and spas here.

Hotel Tsuruya

Throughout the ski resort, there are various ryokans and hotels to choose from. I had the pleasure of staying at Tsuruya, a ryokan known for its onsens.

The staff were accommodating and offered amazake upon my arrival, helped with my luggage, and guided me through all the facilities.

The room was a traditional Japanese-style room with tatami mats and a low table.

The highlight of the room was definitely the view.

Tsuruya’s onsens are 100% fresh hot spring water flowing directly from their own source at 125°F (52°C). You might be thinking, that is hot! And yes, it was boiling! But with four private baths and a public indoor and outdoor bath, it is the perfect relaxation spot, especially after a day of hitting the slopes or trekking. Guests staying at the hotel can make one free private bath reservation per day for 50 minutes.

I chose the wooden scented bath made entirely from cypress wood with views overlooking the ski resort.

Food at Hotel Tsuruya

For dinner, you can choose from four different meals: the Yamagata Local Cuisine Set, Shabu-Shabu, Sukiyaki, or the Zao Beef Set. Each meal uses seasonal ingredients sourced in Yamagata, and you can enjoy it in your own private dining room.

I opted for the Zao Beef Set, which was one of the most tender pieces of meat I have had in some time. Included was 200g of Zao beef raised at the Zao Kogen Farm at the foot of Mount Zao, along with some small side dishes, salad, rice, and miso soup.

This was the morning view from my room.

For breakfast, there was a variety of small dishes, fish, a small pot of oden, and bread to help energize you for another full day of exploring.

So that was my trip to Zao Ski Resort! Seeing the snow monsters was on my Japan bucket list for so long, and they did not disappoint. The photos do not compare to how beautiful the snow monsters and overall scenery were in person. If you travel to Japan in winter, I highly recommend putting Zao on your list! Read here for more posts for skiing in Japan.